1. Create an account to join in the discussion. Once you register don't forget to enter our monthly drawings.

    Register to post on our forum.
  2. Home Theater Lounge will begin holding a live chat every Wednesday evening at 9pm Central. The goal is to get as many members online at the same time and just talk movies, music, and gear. You can join the chat by going to the Shoutbox app.
    Dismiss Notice
  3. Dismiss Notice

3d Printing

Discussion in 'DIY Lounge' started by Dustin B, Apr 19, 2015.

  1. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    I should also say that although there have been a number of successful decent quality sub $500 printers it's still the 1-3k consumer stuff that is really working well. It always comes down to quality parts with these machines and good rails or extrusions, bearings, stepper motors, control boards, power supplies, precision machined extruder and hotend parts and frame parts all add up. That won't change. For the same reasons cheap speakers can't match ones with more expensive parts when both have the same level of design we aren't ever going to see really capabile 3d printers in the few $100 range anytime soon if ever.
     
  2. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    Buddy just ordered an Original Prusa I3 MK2 (won't have it for 6-7 weeks though). It's getting really good reviews and can be ordered kit for for about $700 and assembled for $900. Also will soon offer the ability to print up to 4 materials from a single nozzle. Here's a recent review of it.

     
    CJ likes this.
  3. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Active Member War Zone Member

    I had forgotten about this thread. This is a timely post though, as I just ordered a Prusa knockoff (aNet A8) from ebay. My cousin has the same printer and has gotten some amazing prints from it. Once I get the hang of it with some small projects I hope to try to print some small computer speaker enclosures. I just cannot decide if I want to make small spheres or something more angular. The printer has a build volume of 220mm x 220mm x 240mm so I should be able to build something interesting once I figure out the software.
     
  4. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    I'm starting to make the transition from Sketchup to Fusion 360 for creating the models to 3d print. I'll still use Sketchup for planning reno's and most wood working projects, but anything I'll be 3d printing will be done in Fusion 360 now. Since the only 3d modelling software I ever learned was Sketchup it hasn't been an easy transition, but I'm making progress in figuring it out.

    Fusion 360 is free for enthusiasts and startups. You can go to the enter a license section of the program and they list an option for free as long as you aren't using it for a business bringing in 100K or more a year.
     
  5. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    Got my first Fusion 360 model almost completed. Just have to tweak a few hole sizes and then split the shroud into a few different parts I'll have to glue back together to make it easier to print.

    A360

    Hopefully I'll get the part printed this weekend.
     
  6. John F

    John F Active Member War Zone Member

    Why the switch from Sketchup to Fusion 360?
     
  7. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    My brother pointed me to it. He's a professional animator and uses Maya at work. He had some home building projects and so decided to look into Fusion 360 since both programs are made by Autodesk. He asked me about it and sent me this video link.



    I hadn't really looked into any other modelling software and just completely bought into Sketchup being significantly easier to use. I now know that in some ways it is and in some ways it isn't. Like I said above for basic stuff like room layouts and making room design decisions and most wood working projects I'll keep using Sketchup. But for 3d printing Fusion 360 is far superior. It treats things as solids by default. Loads of the tools are specifically designed for the tasks you'll most want to do when designing parts (fillets, chamfers, join/subtract/intersect, shell, joints are crazy cool). The parametric modelling aspect slows you down a bit, but with some forethought it allows you to make models that you can have a handful of variables be editable and have designs that scale to different specs trivially. And has some different modes that will make doing more free form things like hand grips way easier. If you really get into it you also get access to FEA analysis tools that could help you figure out if your part design will be strong enough. The list could go on.

    The interface between the mounting plate and the donut at the bottom would have been impossible in Sketchup without a bunch of addins (and I hacked an addin to get some basic Solid Tools in the free version). All that stuff is just there in Fusion 360 and designed into the program, not a plugin, so they work way better too. If you're doing any part design for 3d printing give it a try.
     
  8. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    Print has started. A little over 2 hours to complete. 3a618981d2431e8a0c98eb4edc70b7ed.jpg
     
  9. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    Well printed not too bad but I got the support material settings in Slic3r all wrong. I'd spend hours trying to separate the supports and likely wreck the one part doing it. Trying again now with different orientation of the parts and support material settings.
    3818cc45e5e7eb04e2a2e012b5de6c12.jpg 33116b568d2638c9aaf5a5219f975cea.jpg

    Sent from my XT1563 using Tapatalk
     
  10. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    Printer jambed during second attempt. Fixed that and on the third the middle section of one piece was curling up and catching the nozzle. Tweaked the model a bit and tried again. Still happened but not as bad. Print finished and should work but some parts of it curled pretty bad. I've come to the conclusion I'll have to add some of my own supports in the model for parts like this. The generated ones just don't cut it.
     
  11. John F

    John F Active Member War Zone Member

    When I started printing I had zero problems with curling, and I printed some fairly wide pieces. Lately, I've been having problems with curling. I thought it was heat related: I don't have a heated bed and I moved the printer into a cooler room.

    I've only printed with PLA. I've been thinking about upgrading to another printer with a heated bed and that can handle more materials.
     
  12. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    I've got a heated bed. I've printed PLA and PETG so far. I've had no issues with curling until this print. There was none on the first attempt. All the curly is occurring where the printer is bridging across support material. When the support was extensive but impossible to remove no curling. When I changed the support generation to something removable I got this curling. I think if I modeled the part to have a single solid wall at the corners and curves doing this that extends down to the print bed the problem would go away.
     
  13. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    Well it's definitely a v1. Some significant issues that need to be solved. Mostly how difficult it makes doing anything to the extruder. That it doesn't sit level without the help of the thread on the right side. A bunch of dimensions on it are slightly off and I misalligned it a bit gluing it together with fastcap 2p10 (you really do only get a few seconds to get it aligned).

    However it is functional and it moves way more air on to the part and does it much more evenly. ad4d99e9511f3a314dd0dccee1475fb6.jpg

    Sent from my XT1563 using Tapatalk
     

Share This Page